Friday, January 8, 2010

New Zealand 1987





New Zealand 1987

I met Ian in Fort William, Scotland in 1983. He had just traveled through the USSR by himself all the way from Vladivostok to Europe. Whenever I'd ask him about the Soviet Union he would give me an interesting anecdote as a response. For example, I wondered about governmental policies regarding religion and he told me that officially, people had freedom of religion in the USSR but that most churches, mosques, and temples had been converted to museums. Perhaps the communists wanted to portray religion as an outmoded way of thinking deserving of something to remind them of a quaint past.
We kept in touch by letters and the occasional phone call. At one point Ian was in Tibet and had given me a mailing address in Lhasa and I recall sending him a postcard which I don't think he ever received due to his nomadic lifestyle. He was born in England and spent much of his childhood in Sri Lanka but he considered himself to be Australian.


In the spring of 1987 I rang him up and he told me that he'd been trying to organize a ski holiday in New Zealand. Skiing in the southern hemisphere when it was summer in the US was something I'd dreamed of myself so we decided to rendezvous in Queenstown and he told me where he'd arranged for accommodation. Our timing would be a little off as I would arrive two days prior to him.
In Chicago's O'Hare Airport I can remember listening to the Vangelis albums "Mask" and "Soil Festivities" on cassette tape as I made my way through the terminal on the moving walkway under glass and lights. It was a thoroughly wonderful experience.
My layover in Honolulu was six hours long so I decided to have a taxi driver give me a guided tour of the city and Waikiki. My personal tour guide was informative and somewhat proud to show me his city.
When I was back at the Honolulu Airport I met a couple from Buffalo who had just gotten married and were indeed on their honeymoon bound for Japan and other places in the far east. They seemed to be a little sad for me because I was traveling alone. I don't think they fully realized that I would soon meet up with an old friend.
On my flight from Honolulu to Auckland I met an attractive young woman named Robin who was on her way to take up a position at the US Embassy in Canberra. We exchanged addresses and agreed to keep in touch -which we did for some time. A party had developed at the back of the plane because that's where smoking was allowed on our trans-Pacific flight. Even folks who didn't smoke gathered for some socializing.

The journey was beginning to take its toll by the time I got to Auckland because I've never had much success in trying to sleep in a moving vehicle. I still had to fly to Christchurch and Mount Cook before finally getting to Queenstown. One nice thing was that I got bumped up to first class for the flight from Auckland to Christchurch.
Stopping at the small Mount Cook Airport seemed like a waste of time but I suppose there must be some good reason for it. The mountain is the highest peak in the country at about 12,000 ft. The flight over the mountains -called the Southern Alps is quite scenic from Mount Cook to Queenstown and the small aircraft certainly bounced around from the turbulence.
The song on the loudspeakers at the Queenstown Airport was "Take Me Home Country Roads" and it helped to remind me that this was the furthest from "The Mountain State" I had ever been. West Virginia is where I grew up.
The hotel was a welcome sight to finally get to. It was 2 PM and I told myself it was ok to take a little nap. I woke up at 10 PM having just gotten a solid eight hour snooze and I knew I'd have a little difficulty adjusting to a new sleep pattern in a time zone on the other side of the world. Heck, it was winter time, too -in this late July!
Great! Now what was I going to do? Should I just stay in my room wide awake all night? No, I decided to check out the hotel bar and have a few drinks. Maybe I'd feel sleepy again.
The bar was empty except for the bartender named Brian. As it turned out he was from Windsor, Ontario and aside from being the bartender he was also an extra in the new George Lucas movie being filmed there. The movie was to be called "Willow" and Brian described how he'd been spending his days slogging around in the mountains in a soldier costume while the director barked out orders.
I went skiing the next day at Coronet Peak and had a decent enough time even though there wasn't much snow cover and I kept dodging rocks. All too often, though, I would hear dreadful scraping sounds from the bottoms of my new Rossignols as I dragged them across slightly concealed pebbles.
My ski jacket still had a lift ticket from Whiteface (Lake Placid) and the ticket had the olympic rings and said "Olympic Authority". All the lift tickets from Whiteface had those items printed on them. Well, some girl who rode the lift with me saw that and was convinced that I was some functionary from "the Olympics". Looking back, I should have played it up instead of denying it like I did. Who knows where it might have taken me? But of course, I'd be guilt ridden afterwards.
Went out in town after skiing, of course. One thing a person should know about Queenstown is that it is one of the most fun places on the planet to visit. Besides skiing there are hundreds of things to do. Some of the obvious ones are bungee jumping, jet boating, white water rafting and paintball. For people who take having fun seriously there's always a party afterwards -or during -or prior to! Looking back, I'm not sure how I survived it, really. Maybe I didn't completely.
Anyway, there are lots of places to go out at night. I think it was my first night that I ran into Marty and Steve from Melbourne. Marty and I would eventually become very good friends and we still are today. After talking with Marty we discovered that we had some similar tastes in literature -specifically, science fiction.
I went to Coronet Peak again the next day. While on the lift I met a guy from the North Island who owns a business selling full spectrum lighting. I told him that I wouldn't mind relocating to his country but he seemed to discourage it by telling me not to judge New Zealand from spending time only in Queenstown. He had a point, of course.

Ian showed up the next day with his friend, Greg who had recently broken a leg playing cricket but to go to Queenstown anyway. They had flown in from Melbourne as well. I had to ask Greg how a fellow breaks a leg playing cricket but he didn't answer my smart aleck question.


At one point, Ian told me that he ran into a girl from the USA named Terri. When I asked him where she was from he said she was from "Louisiana or Pennsylvania or somewhere like that." It made me laugh but I knew that, as well travelled Ian was, he'd never been to America so I assumed that he meant that she was from a state whose name began with a consonant and ended in an "a". When I met Terri I found out she was from Baton Rouge, Louisiana's state capitol.
We all eventually came to realize that Terri was something of a "free spirit" and was liable to say or do almost anything. She was quite attractive although I never really contemplated a relationship with her do to her rough and volatile nature.
Her family had sent her away on a six month -or more holiday in Australia, New Zealand and Oceania. After some thought I decided to ask her if her family was involved in state politics back in Louisiana. She confirmed my suspicions by saying that yes, they were. I think they paid to get rid of their potentially embarrassing relative long enough to avoid any real damage during election campaign preparations.
She often made me laugh at her impromptu statements regarding food she had been served or other services rendered. Sometimes, though, she had me a little embarrassed -as I usually am when fellow Americans draw attention to themselves in a negative way while travelling abroad.
I had witnessed an American businessman in Rome two years previous scream at the ticket agent because she didn't speak English. I wanted to grab him by the collar and say to him, "Dude, When in Rome ..."

There were others who sort of joined our group. Yanni and Penny from New Zealand latched onto us. Two nurses from Brisbane, Trudi and Sarah, became part of our entourage, as well. Toby and James, two "Poms" (as the English are sometimes called) became friends with us as well.

Most days we would catch the shuttle bus to a ski field called The Remarkables. The first day there Ian told me to stop and take in the panorama and then he said, "Mate, you know, this place is ---remarkable."
Ian pointed out the mountain parrots that are a common sight at The Remarkables. These birds are known as "keas" and are infamous for their tendency to rip cars apart. Anything that is rubber or plastic or not solidly attached to a vehicle is fair game with these creatures. Glen Plake once said in one of his ski films that he'd like to let a bunch of these guys loose on the parking lot at Aspen. They will steal your food from the table you are sitting at if you aren't careful and they are somewhat intimidating due to their size and overall attitude.

Once while at The Remarkables I decided to light a cigarette. Ian, Trudi, Sarah, Marty, Steve, Yanni, Penny, and Terri all watched intently as I lit the filter end and take a couple of puffs . Yeah, that's what my "friends" were like. It was good for a laugh I suppose and I doubt I sustained any permanent lung damage from it.





Coming back from The Remarkables one day there were a half dozen farmers from Florida there on some exchange program. One of them took out his can of Copenhagen and placed a pinch in his lower lip. Yanni had never seen such a thing and asked the farmer what that was and asked if he might try some.
The farmer obliged and after minor instruction, Yanni's eyes began to widen as he experienced his first dip of snuff. I pointed out that no one had given Yanni anything to get rid of the spit. So Yanni asked the farmer what he should do and the reply was, "Swoller it." Yanni's face began to turn green as the boy was destined for sickness on the bus while it negotiated the steep mountain switchbacks. It was hilarious!

There was a mechanical bull in one big rowdy bar in Queenstown. I hadn't seen one of those in the US for about ten years. I suppose litigation or the threat of it had disposed of that bit of fun we used to have. In New Zealand it was more or less understood that the stupid things you may do are entered into at one's own risk.
One particular evening I noticed one drunken Kiwi passed out in the corner and his mates waking him to convince him that he should give the mechanical bull a go. He brushed them away at first but eventually was persuaded to join in. I watched as his buddies walked him to the monstrosity and gently and gingerly perched him upon the saddle. Once he was in place the fellow at the controls gave them the slightest nudge which of course resulted in a face plant into the floor from about six feet up. The crowd roared with laughter.
Next, they talked this very pretty and shapely young lady into riding the machine. Once she was in place the fellow at the controls very deftly made it appear as though she was humping the thing. Again, the patrons cheer and have a good laugh. I was in tears.

There was another place that my group frequented. It was more of a dance place but I never cared much for that particular activity. I can recall once, while standing at the end of the bar, a fellow comes up next to me and whispers, "Mate, do you see that bottle of Jack Daniels on the shelf right there?" I acknowledged that I did and he suggested that -at the count of three that I hoist him up by his boot so that he could grab it and I agreed to it.
He counted one ...two ... and just then the barmaid came around the corner. He looked at me, grinned, and said, "We'll get it later."
At the same club -perhaps the same night I went to the men's room to relieve myself. The toilet had a trough along two of the walls where guys stood shoulder to shoulder and did their business. Suddenly, someone lit up a joint and passed it down the line. Keep in mind that these guys are from all over the world and could be carrying any number of dreadful diseases and their hands had been just touching their-know-what. Your fear competes with another way of thinking. You don't want to seem ungracious or antisocial or to be somehow above taking one little hit. You might tell yourself that the fire and the smoke will likely kill any germs. So you might thank the fellow who hands it to you, take a puff, and pass it down the line.




Being an astronomy buff, I had to mention to Ian one evening that I'd never seen the Southern Cross and I asked him to point it out to me. He did. There had been a huge supernova seen earlier that year called SN 1987A and was only visible in the southern hemisphere. It had first been noticed in February and had peaked in brilliance in May. I didn't count on still being able to see it in late July. But, after I asked Ian if it was still visible he was more than glad to point it out to me. I wondered how many folks would have been able to do that or if I was lucky to have such a knowledgeable friend.

One morning I decided that I was too wiped out to go skiing so Toby, James, and I decided to look for some other sort of diversion for the day. We wondered the streets of Queenstown looking in the shops and things. I found a 175 gram frisbee that had a world map on it that placed the nation of New Zealand at the center and made it larger than the continent of South America.
The three of us decided to try out paintball in the afternoon. We were taken by Land Rover out into the bush and equipped with military style jackets, goggles and weapons and ammo. The three of us fought three New Zealanders for an hour or so. It was utterly exhausting and I looked forward to diving into some beer afterwards.

One evening our extended group decided to get together for pizza and beer at the Pizza Hut. There must have been at least a couple dozen of us. I recall laughing and drinking and looking up to see the newlywed couple from Buffalo that I'd met in Honolulu a week before. When they saw me they seemed utterly surprised to witness me surrounded by so many people with whom I'd obviously forged strong bonds in the relatively short amount of time. I went over to their table to say hello but they appeared as though they preferred to be left to themselves so I went back to my group.

The hotel restaurant served delicious meals and I had been going there for dinner nearly every evening. There was an attractive young lady who'd waited on me most of the time and I always tipped her well. When Ian, Marty, and the others learned of me tipping my waitress they grew angry with me. They let me know that tipping simply wasn't done in New Zealand and Australia and that if I helped to introduce the custom it might undermine their economic system. I guess the waitress must have thought I was rich.

Trudi and I had become quite close and when it came time for me to leave New Zealand she saw me off at the Queenstown airport. The song playing on the loudspeakers was "Leavin' on a Jet Plane." Trudi mentioned that the song may foretell a theme for our relationship were it to continue. That song had also been written by John Denver.

My neighbor, Joe, had suggested that I stop and visit his daughter, Karen, and her husband during my long layover in Los Angeles upon my return to the continental US. At LAX I got a taxi and told him where I needed to go. As it turned out they lived in a gated community and were apparently quite wealthy. Karen's husband owned a line of sports clothing that I was familiar with. I swam in their pool and became somewhat refreshed.

At O'Hare a bad thunderstorm had caused many of the outgoing flights to be delayed. I found myself in the bar chatting with a woman who was trying to get to Dallas/Fort Worth. Eventually we ended up snuggling and snogging out of need for entertainment as much as anything else. After our respective flights departed we never heard from each other again. I should have felt guilty for that since I'd just left Trudi but I could just blame the alcohol.

Trudi and I were an item for the next couple of years and I got to visit her in Queensland a couple of times and she visited me in the US a couple of times as well. The last I heard from her, she and a group of friends spent New Years Eve flying around Antarctica and each hour they entered a new time zone at the stroke of midnight so that they kept experiencing the new year. She was definitely a fun girl. One of the things I'll always remember her telling me was, "For your thirtieth birthday you can have anything you want."

Friday, December 11, 2009

Norway 2009
























-08:50 12 October, 2009 Wilmington, Vermont

Began my day with an omelet and coffee while reading a textbook about the ancient world. The section I’m currently on deals with the near east and the Egyptian, Hittite, Assyrian, Persian, and Chaldean empires. A special emphasis is placed on the Hebrew bible as an historical document and its usefulness in piecing together the patchwork of modern archaeology. One interesting item I picked up is that the Hittites were considered a relatively minor culture as mentioned in the bible but recent discoveries indicate that they had a relatively significant empire at one time.
My trip to Norway begins when I finish here. Driving to Hartford airport then flying to Dulles then to Frankfurt then to Bergen. There is someone at the other end who will show me her city day after tomorrow.
Besides Bergen I hope to see Trondheim, the Viking capitol. As in many of my travels, a dream I had spurs me on. In this case I dreamt of a map of the known world similar to the one referred to as the “Vinland Map” and perhaps in travelling to Trondheim I can recapture some of the senses I experienced in my sleep.

-22:30 EST 12 October, 2009 Somewhere halfway over the Atlantic Ocean

There’s a person onboard my flight who’s having medical problems. The announcement over the PA system asked for assistance from any health care professionals. This would be a terrible place to need urgent attention, that’s for sure.
We are flying in a Boeing 747-400 and it is certainly spacious but nearly filled to capacity. As might be expected, this Lufthansa flight seems to be filled half with German and half with U.S citizens.
There’s an overhead monitor that shows the plane’s position relative to the North American and European continents. It seems like we have been stuck south of Iceland forever. The movie on this flight was “The Proposal” and I caught myself laughing quite a few times. I had seen the beginning someplace recently.
I guess I should put my laptop away because the person in front of me keeps placing their seat in a more reclined position forcing me to collapse the machine into nearly unusable angle. Maybe I should try and sleep but I’ve never been good at that while in a moving vehicle.

-03:57 14 October 2009 Bergen, Norway

I haven’t slept and my bags never showed. They must be in Frankfurt.

The area is very nice but it’s difficult to relax and enjoy it when I’m scrambling to get things in order. Being so tired doesn’t help either, of course.

Ok, I’ll stop whining now. Will send pictures when my camera arrives




-10:34 14 October 2009 Bergen, Norway

Marty in Adelaide writes back: Did you feel a slight change in air pressure on the atlantic flight, probably just the flight attendants getting rid of the body of the person who needed medical attention out a small cargo door.
Never pack your camera, you should always keep it with you just in case. Looking forward to some pictures.
-06:30 15 October 2009 Bergen
I was supposed to meet my lady friend at the tourist information office downtown near the fish market at noon yesterday. I was there for over an hour watching for a woman who resembled the one in the photos I’d seen. Eventually I decided that something had happened to prevent our rendezvous and had the people there to call about my missing luggage. They said that it had just arrived so I returned to the hotel where it was delivered from the airport. It was there! That was a happy moment to say the least.
In checking my email I found that Abby had been waiting from before noon and for over an hour at the tourist info place as well. She included her phone number and when we spoke we found out what had happened –she had been waiting outside and I had been inside. Of course, all one can do is laugh and we made arrangements to meet later and to be more specific regarding place and time.
Soon I contacted a fellow about a room for rent and met up at the place and paid him for two night’s accommodation. This is a place that Abby had learned about and suggested to me.
Abby and I finally met and had a wonderful evening with dinner at an Italian restaurant –both of us ordering the carbonara with bacon with a glass of red wine. It was delicious, we both agreed. The food, the conversation and the lady were all delightful.
We walked around town and admired the lights as she told me about places and events in her life that had special meaning. Eventually we settled into a little spot on the waterfront and had a drink. As we walked to where she needed to catch a bus home we made arrangements to meet again this evening and to also do some things tomorrow when she has the day off.
Ok, now that I have my camera I’ll send some pictures very soon.




-18:34 15 October 2009 Bergen
Abby and I went to the old stave church at Fantoft –a place I’ve wanted to see first hand since I saw pictures of it as a child. When we got there the gate was locked and we could only see it from outside the protected area. Abby had me take a picture of her pretending to climb the fence. She is such a rebel!
I’m sending some shots I managed to get today although it was rather foggy and overcast.
My dad sent this: Thanks. Get some rest as soon as possible and get ready to enjoy yourself and to see some different country. I know you must be excited because you've been looking forward for a while. You'll be able to see where some of your ancestors have traveled but with different modes of transportation. Have fun and be careful.
And Shirley in Portland, Oregon sent this: How is the weather there? Are you in long johns! Sounds like a very nice young lady, and a great evening!
Well, the weather isn’t much different from what I’m used to in Ontario and Vermont. Yes, she is a very nice lady and I found out that when she was a child her father was the Norwegian ambassador to the U.S. She lived for four years in Washington, D.C. as a spoiled little princess.
-17:30 16 October 2009 Bergen
Abby and I took the rail car to the top of the hill overlooking the city –a place called Floyen. We took some pictures and walked about and took in the nice sunny day. I’ve been told that this is usually the rainy season but of the four days I’ve been here it has been sunny three of them and the other one-yesterday-was just misty and cloudy.
After our little excursion to Floyen we had lunch and coffee at an outdoor café and fed the little birds crumbs from our bread. One brave creature actually perched itself onto the edge of our table for a few seconds and another one onto the back of a chair. As we were leaving there was an outdoor fish market where I got to taste some caviar and was very tempted to buy some fresh salmon.
Plans were made to meet this evening for more walking and possibly drinks. It’s Friday night and it might be a good time because it was such a pleasant day that folks might want to celebrate a bit. By the way, I finally got some decent sleep last night. What a relief that is!
I inquired about taking the boat to Trondheim and found that it departs Bergen every night at 22:30 and takes two nights to reach the other end. So I’m considering leaving tomorrow evening and I might be without internet access during that time.

Fred in Richland, Washington writes: How are you man? Thanks for sharing your journal. I look forward to some pictures. I visited Trondheim during a North Atlantic cruise when I was in the Navy. I thought the people were great and the women were stunning. I was too young to appreciate it the way I would now though. You know...youth is wasted on the young!

-23:27 17 October 2009 Bergen but underway towards Trondheim
What a beautiful ship this is! It’s the MS Finnmarken if any of you feel like looking it up. The vessel started moving at precisely 22:30 and I mean to the second! That’s very impressive. We’ll be stopping at maybe a half dozen ports along the way. The internet access is available but very slow. They blame it on a satellite and the distance to it. If it is in a geosynchronous orbit then it’s about 24,000 miles from us –about 1/8 second travel time and another 1/8 second back. The lag is obviously in the processing.
Met folks from Bremerton, Washington and Portland, Oregon.
When Abby and I went to Floyen there were other Americans on our excursion there and she pointed out how we speak nasally in general –and she’s right. Last night while I was out with Abby and her daughter I got them laughing by imitating how Scandinavians sound to us –“Horda gorda horda.”
By the way, thanks, Fred, for sending the picture of you sailing. What a natural setting for you! I can barely remember when we sailed together because of the eventual inebriation. Why did you follow me so close on the way home with your headlights set to high anyway?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVaONqB3lCc

-07:00 18 October 2009 Maloy, Norway
The brochure says that this is a big fishing town. It’s still dark and, even though I plan on going for a little stroll, I don’t think I’ll see much.
-19:16 18 October 2009 Molde, Norway
The day was spent alternately relaxing on board ship and visiting the places where we stopped. I saw Torvik but it wasn’t much more than a place for us to moor to. Alesund is actually quite nice and you’ll see from one of the pictures that there are some substantial mountain peaks nearby that are snow-covered. Next was Molde and it was nice too. I visited shops in Alesund and Molde.
I spent about half an hour in one of the Jacuzzis. My plan was to be sitting in the hot tub when the ship left Alesund. It worked perfectly and I was reminded of how spoiled I’m getting.

http://arctic360.360vt.eu/finnmarken/

The internet available on this ferry exists just enough to be frustrating. It’s very slow and works intermittently. A German fellow and I were kind of joking about it. He was trying to keep up with a soccer game on the web. There’s a sign by the computers to remind people that they are under surveillance and we decided that it’s meant to prevent people from punching the monitors and keyboards.
-07:37 19 October 2009 Trondheim, Norway
My pilgrimage is complete except for actually setting foot ashore. I’m still on the ferry and it doesn’t depart until noon. I’ll have breakfast here and then decide what to do.
A series of events have occurred here in my cabin in the past seven hours that I am reluctant to convey for fear of appearing off my rocker. I actually did describe them but when I was closing the word document it told me that I was attempting to modify a “read only” file but that I could save it by changing the name. So the file is Called “Norway 2009 Trondheim”. I guess I’ll let it go at that.
-20:41 19 October 2009 Rorvik, Norway
This morning I was filled with indecision as I walked around Trondheim but I eventually decided to continue north with the M.S. Finnmarken. I’ve made a couple of friends among the fellow guests. They are Kathy and Alana, both from Portland, Oregon. I had initially met them during a meeting at the start of the trip while we were still docked in Bergen and since them we sometimes dine together in the restaurant or meet in the lounge. I’ve learned that Kathy was a nurse in the navy and station in Groton, Connecticut when I was there. I wonder if she was the nurse who castigated me for climbing the dunes on Block Island just a few days following my knee surgery. I’ll have to ask her.

This evening I’ve been watching a movie that I brought with me on my laptop. It’s called “In the Shadow of the Moon” and it’s a documentary produced by Ron Howard describing NASA’s Apollo program. One of the astronauts being interviewed mentioned that, of all the science fiction stories written up to that point describing man landing on the moon, none foresaw the world watching it on television. I saw it because I was playing in our front yard and my dad called for me to come watch something that I wouldn’t want to miss. I guess it’s typical for people to recall where they were for historic events in their lives. I want thank my father for that. Thanks, Dad!
Very early tomorrow morning we’ll pass the Arctic Circle and I plan on ending my shipboard travels at Bodo. From there I may decide to fly back to Bergen or take a train if one exists. My flight home isn’t for another week so I have some flexibility but Bergen definitely grows on you. Abby told me once that Oslo is really her hometown but she truly loves Bergen and she can’t imagine ever moving from there. I can understand why.


It has occurred to me that you may like to know the names of the places this vessel has stopped along the way. My dad says he’s been using Google Earth to look at the places. Maybe I should send along a map of Norway but I trust that all of you are capable of finding one yourselves. So, by the time we arrive in Bodo, here is the list of places.
Bergen, Floro, Maloy, Torvik, Alesund, Molde, Kristiansund, Trondheim, Rorvik, Bronnoysund, Sandnessjoen, Nesna, Ornes, and then Bodo. The trip continues, however, to Stamsund, Svolvaer, Stokmarknes, Sortland, Risoyhamn. Harstad, Finnsnes, Tromso, Skjervoy, Oksfjord, Hammerfest, Havoysund, Honningsvag, Kjollefjord, Mehamn, Berlevag, Batsfjord, Vardo, Vadso, and finally Kirkenes. Then the ship turns around and heads back south to visit all those places again in reverse order.
Keep in mind that there are about a dozen ships like this one in the Hurtigruten fleet that constantly ply the Norwegian coastline and in summer they reach even more places. Besides being a passenger transport I imagine they are an important part of the economy by moving goods from town to town.
By the way, we aren’t completely out of touch with the world. Each cabin has television including CNN and two or three channels that have entertainment –much of it American shows like “Americas’ Funniest Videos” as well as old episodes of “Scrubs, “Friends”, and “Dynasty” (believe it or not). Hey, what’s up with the “balloon boy”, anyway? Is it reality TV gone crazy or what? Not that I really care. Someday we’ll be amazed at our capacity to have paid so much attention to stupid stuff, I suspect.
-22:34 19 October 2009 underway between Rorvik and Bronnoysund
Something I learned as a lad about Christopher Columbus was that he visited Iceland with his merchant brother. Perhaps he ventured there because he’d heard of the land to the west that the Vikings called “Vinland” and wanted to do a bit of research.
Another thing I know about the Vikings is that they often had to stay away from Norway because they were in legal trouble or were otherwise out of favor with the king. This theme kept reoccurring because Eric the Red wasn’t allowed back in Iceland, either, so he and his fellows were forced to find a place that would keep them out of trouble.
Their dealings with Native Americans (well, Native Canadians or First Nations or whatever) led to hostility as well since they traded some milk to the lactose intolerant aboriginals. Apparently this is what prevented them from maintaining a presence in North America. They wore out their welcome in very short order. They literally made their newfound associates ill. I can imagine Eurasian diseases might have been passed as well –the ones the native Vinlanders wouldn’t have had immunity to.

-07:32 20 October 2009 Underway between Nesna and Ornes
The TV indicates that we are at latitude 66 degrees 35.570 so we are very close to the Arctic Circle and it’s just starting to get light outside. Breakfast started at 07:30 so I’m headed for the restaurant.
-15:18 20 October 2009 Bodo, Norway
The ship will next stop in Svolvaer about six hours from now. Several people have suggested going there and have said it is a very nice place so I’ll get a hotel room for the night. Maybe there will be full internet access and I’ll be able to send this journal along with some pictures.
While In Bodo I visited a public library and was able to check my arcticmail. Thanks for the nice comments, Janet in Whitby, Ontario. Adriel in Zurich wrote and so did Dave in upstate New York –both asking questions about Abby. One asked how I met her and one requested information regarding her physical attributes. You know who you are. Here’s my reply, “Wouldn’t you like to know?”
I’ve forgotten to mention a few things about life aboard the M.S. Finnmarken. For example, when an announcement is made over the public address system they begin in Norwegian, then in English, and then in German. The food is very good and I generally eat in the restaurant but sometimes I just grab something from the cafe –such as a sandwich.
-22:58 22 October 2009 Svolvaer, Norway
Ok, I officially love this place! Of course, there are negative aspects to it such as the isolation and the impending bad weather –of which I’ve been mercifully spared.
Let me try to recap some of what I’ve been up to. Two nights ago the “coastal steamer” , as I’ve learned that locals like to call it, arrived at around 9.PM and, as I had been told, finding a hotel room wasn’t a problem. There’s a brand new Thon hotel near the ferry landing and they took me in. I had stayed in a Thon hotel my first night in Norway near the airport in Bergen. They are a little expensive but also very nice –not a bad way to spend your first night in a foreign country and get accustom to things. The WiFi is good but you have to get little cards with username and passwords that you have to scratch to obtain and they are only good for four hours. So, of you really want to use the web for long periods you have to keep visiting the front desk for new cards.
My first day in Svolvaer was fairly eneventful but I did make it a priority to learn how I was to make my way back to Bergen for my eventual flight on the 26th back to Frankfurt, Washington D.C. and then Hartford. So I asked at the front desk at the hotel how I might do that. They pointed me towards the local travel agency –which I eventually found. It wasn’t well marked.
Of the three flights a day destined for places that might lead me to Bergen I learned that the one leaving just before noon –obviously the most desirable for the casual traveler such as myself was already full on Thursday (the day I was aiming for) but Friday’s flight was still available so I booked that.
Then we got into a discussion about immigrants in Norway and the potential threat they pose to western culture. This may seem unnecessarily alarmist until you look at statistics. For example, western democracies such as the U.S., Australia, the U.K., Norway, France, etc. have essentially zero population growth if you don’t count immigrants. But immigrants come from countries with sometimes vastly different cultures. Many of these people breed like rabbits (a slight exaggeration). And I learned that what really infuriates Norwegians is that immigrants coming as refugees aren’t even allowed to work.

Last evening was more of a good pub outing than what I’ve had in quite some time. Everything is within staggering distance here. And there’s no real worry about getting hit by a car but I suppose a person could fall in the water and die from exposure. None of that happened and I survived more or less.
I was having some dinner at a pub –but just washing it down with water at that point when I struck up a conversation with a local dude sitting by the fireplace. He ended up being a fine fellow named Thor. Then one of his friends showed up and I soon ordered a beer and sat with them. I then left to go back to my hotel when I met a guy getting off the elevator who asked me if I knew of a good place to eat (speaking English straight away although he is Norwegian –I must be a dead give away with my ball cap and jeans). So I told him about the place where I’d just eaten but he said he knew about that place already.
I was looking for my next pint so we walked bit until we found ourselves in a Turkish restaurant and we both ordered some beer while my friend ordered his dinner. I found out that he lives near Tromso, that he is 34 and his girlfriend is pregnant and when he calls her on the phone he never knows what to expect from her exposure to her frenzied hormones. He’s selling and overseeing the installation of heat pumps in homes and businesses. At one point he pointed to a building that’s currently under construction and told me that one of his systems is being installed in it.
He had ordered filet mignon but it looked like what we would call roast beef in the states. He said that it was disappointing to him as well and it also made him wonder what animal it actually was that he was eating.
We decided to go to the pub where I had been earlier. The two dudes who I’d left had turned into five and I learned that they were all local taxi drivers along with the owner of the business. They were having a meeting at the pub. Brilliant!
It was a great night out with the boys and the conversations took all sorts of twists and turns.
Today I had to move from the Thon hotel and I found refuge in the very lovely and well situated Rica Hotel. It is located on an island in the harbor. My little room has its own deck just a few feet over the water. The pub where I had such a good time is a thirty second walk if I want it.
Oh, earlier today I went to the travel agency where we had worked ourselves up in veiled anti-immigration and hinted racist views the day before to ask them about a bus that might be available to see the local area. They said it might be somewhat late in the day (I think it was about a quarter to four). Then it occurred to me that I should just get one of my taxi buddies to show me around. Sure, it would be a little expensive but I came here to see the place and I’d have my own private driver and tour guide. His name was Rolff and he showed me Kabelvag and Henningsvaer.
I really wish I could send all the pictures I’ve taken. Some are better than others, depending on what you are looking for and I have to compact the pictures to make them a more reasonable size –especially when sending several.
The country here is extreme in so many ways. The flat sea crashes against mountains thousands of meters high –and it’s not just in one place but for thousands of miles of coastline.
Voyages to places are often voyages of self discovery. I personally seek quiet and out-of-the-way places but some seek a crowded beach and the hustle-bustle of cities. The way I have come to think is that this might be the only life you have and even if there is a spirit world following this one, wouldn’t you still long for the touches and the smells and the emotions of being alive?
-09:33 23 October 2009 Svolvaer, Norway
I got to see the northern lights last night.
-16:50 23 October 2009 Bergen, Norway
Flew from Svolvaer to Bodo to Trondheim to Bergen.
Thanks for writing Frances in the Shetlands, PJ in northern Florida, and Laura Lynne in southeastern Nebraska.

-18:40 25 October 2009 Bergen, Norway
I’m staying at a hotel near the airport so that I won’t miss my very early flight tomorrow to Frankfurt.
When I was still in Svolvaer I sent some emails requesting a room for the three evenings I would spend in Bergen prior to my departure. I highly recommend this approach to travel because you get a nice clean room in a guest house for about a third of what you’d pay in a hotel. There are other advantages because it’s an excellent way to meet other travelers and you get to know the destination more intimately by actually being forced to find the address. Friday night I stayed at Anne Helen’s and last night I stayed at Sylvi’s. Many times the owners of the guest houses will network and help you find a place. For example, Kristian sent me a list of places to try after letting me know that his place was full.
After I got settled into Anne Helen’s I called Abby to set up a time to meet for more carbonara and red wine. Afterwards we went to Scruffy Murphy’s for another drink or two.
I wasn’t sure of the location of the place I had booked for Saturday night so I stopped by Kristian’s house to see if he knew the street. I had left Anne Helene’s and Kristian lives nearby. He recognized the street right away and pointed me in the right direction.
The evening before I had spoken with Sylvi on the phone and since I had nothing to write with, I made arrangements to call for direction at noon the next day. Kristian’s great sense of things in his city and the use of my handy-dandy Bergen map I was actually ringing the doorbell at noon. Let me tell you, though, you can get quite a workout sometimes –especially in a steep hilly place like Bergen.
At 1PM I met with Abby for some pleasant conversation and coffee. I gave her my Boston Red Sox hat as a souvenir from the USA and told her of the despicable and greatly despised New York Yankees. She had to return to her place for at least a little while so I suggested we get together a little later.
When I rang her later she told me that she felt like resting at home for the evening so I returned Sylvi’s. I was surprised to find that another guest was staying in the room across from mine. Her name is Natalya and she is from the Ukraine. She is working with NATO in Brussels and that provided us with some interesting conversation –given that Ukraine is one of the newest members of NATO and that it is a former Soviet republic.
I had resigned myself to accepting that I wouldn’t be able to use the internet at Sylvi’s even though I counted about eight good strong local signals. All but one were security-enabled and that meant I needed a “network key” to access them. The one that was open-access proved to allow connection but I still couldn’t connect to the internet. Natalya pointed out that just such a code for the WiFi where were staying was written on a piece of paper and thumbtacked to the wall by the dining room table.

When I got online I found that Abby was concerned about her daughter –who has been diagnosed with having swine flu and has been ill for two weeks with it. Abby tried to call her daughter but got no answer. So, she was taking the bus back into town, after all to check on her daughter. So I told her that I’d call her in an hour so that she’d have enough time to get into town and find things out.
When I called I learned that her daughter had slept through the ringing of the phone. We arranged to meet again in twenty minutes. We eventually walked to her bus stop and I told her that I’d call her at 11AM today.
Today was the day that we were supposed to set the clocks back. Abby had reminded me of the fact yesterday but it still took me a while to figure it out. I walked by McDonald’s and noticed that they weren’t open yet even though the sign said that they would open at 11AM on Sundays but my watch said 11:41. Hmmmmm!?!?
Ok, so I had actually called Abby at 10AM and not 11 and had agreed to meet her at the infamous Tourist Info office at 1:10PM where we had originally missed each other by me waiting inside while she waited outside. And now we would be an hour off in our rendezvous time. Obviously, I had to call her back to let her know that I knew what the real time was. It was good for a laugh, anyway.
We met and went through an art gallery that had plenty of silver items –some dating back to Viking times. There was an exhibit of furniture design –of which, of course, Scandinavians are famous for. There was a section devoted to Chinese sculpture and porcelain.
Eventually it came time for us to say farewell and go our separate ways. It wasn’t a sad occasion as much as it was a mutual understanding that we enjoy each other’s company.
Thanks for writing Kate and Bruce in Vermont. I’m glad you liked traveling with me.
-18:13 28 October 2009 Wilmington, Vermont
My return to where I started was fairly uneventful. I got to see a movie I had been looking forward to, “Moon.” It’s not a movie about The Who’s former drummer nor is it about the leader of the Unification Church. I liked the flick.
It’s always strange to return to see the same place and the same people and nothing much has seemed to change while so much adventure filled my life in the past two weeks. I guess a good vacation to a distant land is supposed to do that –wake you up and make you see things from a new perspective.
Thanks to all of you who wrote. It was important to know that people enjoyed my journal and the pictures I took along the way.

Switzerland 2006/2007





Three Dreams of The Jungfrau

Three dreams that I’ve had while sleeping over the past three years have led me to the Jungfrau region of Switzerland. The Jungfrau is one of the three large mountains one can see from the city of Interlaken. The other two are the Eiger and Monch.

The dreams:
1)The family and the Schilthorn.
2)Wengen and where I missed my stop.
3)Slipping down and climbing up to obtain the rings.

17:00 23 December, 2006 Miami International Airport

Alberto couldn’t come get me to drive me to the airport but he said that I could drive to his parents’ house and get a cab –which is exactly what I did. He told me that his mom doesn’t speak English. She actually did wish me a Merry Christmas in English and I did speak some Spanish to her and wished her Felis Navidad.
Man, what a mess it is getting through airport security! They even took my toothpaste because the tube could hold more than three ounces. It was almost empty, though. There’s an item I’ll have to buy at some point in the near future.
Met a married couple on their way to Switzerland to ski –Natalia amd Mitchell.

09:30 29 December, 2006 Ringgenberg Sage, Interlaken

I’ve now been here for six days and since arriving I’ve made dozens of friends.

The overnight flight from Miami to Zurich was choppy but relatively uneventful. Installed into the back of the seat in front of me was an entertainment system that had games (I played mini golf a lot) and movies and music and even an indicator that showed where the plane was located relative to North America and Europe.
I used trains to get from Zurich to Interlaken with a changeover in Bern. The trains are quiet, efficient and on time. First Class cars are quite luxuriant if you can sneak onto one like I did from Bern to Interlaken.
Once the train approached Interlaken I starting getting glimpses of the Alps through the windows. The Alps are always breathtaking and I’m never quite prepared. It was no trouble catching the bus from Interlaken Ost to Ringgenberg Sage where I had prearranged to have someone meet me –a friend of and engineer who I’d worked with in Florida just before I left.
Ann was ready for my arrival by inviting to of her young lady friends over for Christmas Eve dinner Swiss style with meat fondue that included lots of sauces and vegetables, different meats, wine, rice, etc., etc. Went to bed full that night.
I should describe Ann’s place. Someone described it as looking like a cuckoo clock but that would describe half of the homes I see around me. Her property sits on a hill that leads down to Brienzersee Lake with snow covered Breitlauenen ridge in the background.
It’s the view from my bedroom. Can’t get enough of it.

Ann’s son and I have taken to hitting the town and meeting up with his friends. One evening three of us went for a sauna that’s located on the top floor of the Hotel Metropole
and the sauna essentially has four parts: a swimming pool, a steam bath, a small pool of ice cold water, and a relaxation room. You take a swim, then sit in the steam room for five minutes then jump into the cold water, then relax for ten minutes or so. Then repeat two more times. It certainly does wake you up!
Ran into some Aussies the other night from Townsville –Emma and Clayton. They had taken the train and elevator to Jungfraujoch which they said took more time than they had expected but it was still worth the trip. I personally want to go to Shilthorn which played a roll in one of the aforementioned dreams. It’s the revolving restaurant at the top of the mountain in the James Bond movie, “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.”
Have had many pleasant conversations and met some interesting people. On thing that I should mention is that speaking only English doesn’t seem to be a problem here. I think everyone speaks at least four languages -German, French, Italian, and English and they change from one to one of the others effortlessly and fluidly. It’s amazing to me.
Yesterday I went with an English guy to Beatenberg which is a town located on a hillside and has the most amazing views of the Jungfrau, Eiger and Monch.

I’m attaching a rather large picture that I took yesterday. Hopefully it doesn’t overwhelm dialup connections or those of you whose servers have restrictive file sizes.
I think you’ll agree that, once you have it in hand, it was worth it.

-AL SJ

17:29 31 December 2006 Interlaken

Went to a hockey game two nights ago in which Bern defeated Zurich 6-0. After the game I went to a nearby hotel bar with a Martin and Adriel, two guys who I’ve been hitting the town with. While at the bar I met young American lady who is in the US Air Force stationed somewhere in Germany. Her hometown is Manchester, Connecticut.
I bought a ticket for tonight’s party at that hotel. There’s a Red Hot Chili Peppers tribute band playing so I’ll see how that goes. I think I’ll be a harsh critic.
Sat in Ann’s hot tub Thursday night with no light except a half moon and a sky full of stars. I could easily see the snow covered mountains across the lake once my eyes got accustomed to the low light. It was one of those experiences in which time stands still.
Met some American folks while I was out last night. One couple is from Virginia Beach and another were from Austin. I asked the couple from Austin if Leslie still bangs his drum on 6th Street. They knew exactly who I was referring to –a transvestite with long stringy hair and a beard who has become something of a local celebrity.
I’ve been walking around Interlaken taking pictures and trying to somehow capture the beauty of the city and its surrounding mountains. Let me know what you think.
Got an email from Ivana yesterday. Those of you who read my dispatches from Scotland last summer may remember my mentioning a beautiful young woman from Slovakia. Well, she’s back in Oban but she’ll be going to Slovakia January 12th to the 29th. I wrote back to let her know that I’m renting a chalet high in the Alps from the 14th to the 26th and that she should join me. We’ll see if she shows up. It would be nice!
Right now I’m sharing a house in Interlaken with a guy named Andy who is a ski instructor here in Switzerland this winter but he also has a carpentry shop near Boston and his wife is there also. It’s good to have him around to talk to since he is familiar with both the US and his native Switzerland. The same guy (whose nickname is “Yeti”) who owns the chalet in Wengen also owns this house where I’m staying. Yeti emailed me a couple of weeks ago to let me know of this house and that I might want to get in touch with Andy. The house is in a very weird location. It’s essentially in the middle of town but it’s also on a farm. The main drag through town is a one minute walk away but you’d never know this place existed unless someone told you about it. It’s a “Twilight Zone” kind of place by the river behind an old farmhouse next to a big open field but in the middle of town.

16:30 1 January, 2007 Interlaken

Last night’s celebrations weren’t all that exciting. I met up with Adi at the Caverne and watched the band. This evening there are fireworks in the park at the center of the city.
It might be nice to see them from a little distance. Maybe I should figure that out. Perhaps a balcony somewhere would be a good spot.

16:51 2 January, 2007 Balmer’s Interlaken

Thanks Debbie, Shirley, Sean, Mom, Michelle, and Duane for writing back.
The fireworks were pretty good. I watched them from Hooter’s where I was having some wings and a coke. There was a little dog that was fascinated with the show. It was more fun watching him watching the fireworks than actually watching the fireworks.
Ran into some more Americans last evening. Three are in the Air Force statione in Germany (a guy from Phoenix, a girl from Bremerton, WA and another young lady from San Diego) and also a couple of guys who are here to promote the world cup ski races. The Wengen races are from January 12th to the 14th. I plan to be there for sure.

17:41 5 January, 2007 Balmer’s Interlaken

Three nights ago I met a Swedish woman named Yvonne who wants to watch the races in Wengen with me next weekend. She’s been to the races before and said that they are incredible. It is the longest men’s downhill course in the world.
Went to Lucerne the next day with Adriel. His friend, Bruno, drove and so I got to see a little more of the Swiss countryside. Adriel and I walked around and explored the city. It’s a much bigger city than Interlaken. There’s lots of old buildings and interesting architecture. We took the train back to Interlaken and got back around 7PM.

We got something to eat and then sat in the hot tub for a while. Adriel met a girl New Year’s Eve and he had text messaged her the next day and had been a little dismayed when she didn’t get back to him. He’s been asking me advice about women. It makes me laugh to think that I would somehow be qualified to tell someone else what to do. I’ve made a lot of bad moves and haven’t been in a relationship for a long time. She eventually did message him back and it seems like they might be hitting it off.
I’ve been meeting more Americans –mostly college students. Played Trivial Pursuit last evening and had a real fun time laughing and joking around. I just saw one of the girls and she went skiing today. Apparently, she had a very harrowing experience during a fall off a 30 foot cliff. She’s okay, though and is now laughing about the whole thing.
Kaspar, Adriel’s friend told us that he has his parents’ house in Grindelwald next week and we are invited to stay there rent free. That should be a fun time. We plan on staying there from Monday evening to Friday afternoon.
Marty says that I should send more pictures and that’s what I’m going to do. I certainly have a lot of them. I think I’ll just crop then somewhat to make them smaller files. Some folks are using dialup connections so I don’t want to overwhelm them. Thanks to Linda, Christine, and Mark for writing back also.

22:35 8 January, 2007 Ringgenberg Sage, Interlaken

My writing has been sketchy at best and I must tell you that it’s not for lack of events and people who I’ve met. Maybe it’s time to rectify that. I’m now back at Ann’s house and she and Ted are still in France. Adriel had a class in Bern this evening so I have the house to myself. Did a soak in the hot tub and then went back into Interlaken to see who was about. Ran into Kelly and Neil at Buddy’s Pub. Buddy’s pub is a little cozy place owned and operated by an English lady named Rosie. Kelly is from Queensland, Australia and Neil is from the extreme north of England. Had a nice chat with them about a wide variety of subjects and exchanged phone numbers and emails.
Had dinner last night at Hooter’s with a Norwegian guy who I’d met at Balmer’s.
Also met some young ladies from Raleigh, North Carolina because one of them had an NC State sweatshirt on. By the way, I’m listening to a classical music radio station that I discovered when I lived in the Raleigh area.
There’s also a very pretty and bright young woman of Iranian and Pakistani descent who I’ve been talking to. She’s been living near Paducah, KY. My, how people get around!
Still waiting to stay in the place in Grindelwald –if it happens at all. My impression is that the town is infested with rich Germans, British, and Americans. We’ll see.
Adriel has become discouraged with the woman he met New Year’s Eve and is now excited by a Russian woman he met a few nights ago. I suspect this is partly my fault because I showed him one of the many websites showing Russian mail order brides. Personally, I just like to look. Having grown up during the Cold War, I was led to believe that all Russian women are fat and ugly. Pure propaganda as it turns out.
A couple of nights ago I met an American guy who apparently overcame his fear of heights by committing to skydiving –more or less because of peer pressure exerted during drinks the night before. There were three of them involved –a New Zealander and two Yanks. I don’t think any of them would have gone on their own but afterwards they all professed it me the absolute best thing any of them had ever done. I think the local scenery had something to do with the experience as well. I also suspect that the adrenaline rush for the one guy was extra powerful for the dude who had a fear of heights to begin with. The guy from New Zealand was texting his pilot friends back home and now they can’t wait to take him up and push him out.
As for the Wengen races this weekend, Adriel thinks that they are best seen on a TV screen. He may be right but I also suspect that there’s nothing like the atmosphere and excitement of actually being there even if you don’t actually see all that much.
Besides, I’ll have a tall beautiful Swedish woman to watch the races with –skiing from one location to the next.
Yesterday I was walking through town and I saw a red husky and a Samoyed together on one leash. The woman who held the leash was as stunningly beautiful as the dogs. Those of you who knew my dog, Cody, will know why I stopped in my tracks at seeing the Samoyed. He looked just like Cody. I had to ask the woman if I could pat her dogs and she said that, yes, I could and that I could watch them while she went across the street to do something. I feel like such a total idiot because I was so “in” and I knew it but I still blew it when she came back and I could have easily walked with her and her dogs but I just went the other way. My only excuse is that my objective was to get something to eat. I told Adriel about it and now he knows not to ask me advice about women.
Thanks to Karen, Dad, and Brian for writing back. Have fun in Hawaii, Shirley!

19:15 5 January, 2007 Ringgenberg Sage Interlaken

While I was walking through town today I noticed an inordinate amount of smoke coming from a place called Heidi’s Hostel. Being a little concerned, I went into the front office to tell the people and a little old lady came out. When I mentioned all the smoke, possibly from a fire, to her she explained that it was from a place behind hers where a man burns his trash even though he is not supposed to. She said that the neighbors have called the police before and when they come all the trash has been burned and he tells them that he was only burning wood. She said that he is not a very nice man, an Austrian, and he thinks that he can come to Switzerland and do whatever he pleases. Perhaps I should have then said, “Ah, an Austrian, say no more!”

23:06 10 January, 2007 Grindelwald

Got into town kind of late last night. Adriel and I met up with Kaspar in Interlaken and Kaspar drove us to his family’s place in Grindelwald. The view from the front porch is incredible! The Eiger is so close that you feel as though you can almost reach out and touch it. In reality it is a few miles away.
Today Kaspar and I took the Gondola from the center of town to a station called First (pronounced like “fierce” wit a “t” at the end). We hiked a some distance from the top of the gondola as well. Got some excellent pictures.
While we were having lunch at the restaurant at the top we sat outside and I fed some black birds little pieces of my sandwich and my apple pie. It always makes me laugh at how seagulls and other birds interact if you feed them. Seems like there’s always one who feels as though it should get everything itself and tries to fend the others off. Then while it is running a few birds off there’s always one who will sneak up from behind and take the food anyway.
As I was sitting on the deck and looking around I spotted someone I knew from Interlaken. It was Andy, the guy who I shared the house with. I’m glad I saw him because I wanted to get his email address. There’s a good chance that I’ll see him back in the USA.
After Kaspar and I returned to the house we watched some TV including “The Simpsons” in German. By the way, Homer doesn’t say, “D’oh!” He says,”Nein!”



22:29 13 January, 2007 Ringgenberg Sage Interlaken

My last night in Interlaken before going to Wengen for a week. It should be fun up there. Hopefully, I make it there tomorrow while the race is still going on. Also would like to take part in some of the festivities afterward.
Bode Miller won today so maybe I can tip a few pints with him and some of the other homeboys. The Swiss seem to like him for some reason.
Ok, folks, I expect to get a lot more writing done next week because I’ll be in a place with few distractions –a rustic chalet high in the alps.
Thanks for writing back Marty in Australia and Sean in Scotland.



15:50 15 January, 2007 Wengen

The trains from Interlaken Ost to Lauterbrunnen and from Lauterbrunnen to Wengen took only about 40 minutes total. I met a family from Long Island while still at the train station in Interlaken. Maria and Paul are the parents and Nicole and Chris are the daughter and son. Nicole is in college and Chris is probably in his mid twenties. They were just in St. Moritz skiing and are now here for the same thing. They are here for a week like I am. We separated in town and agreed that we most likely would run into each other again before the week is over.
I found the place where I’m staying without too much trouble. It’s about a fifteen minute walk from the center of town. It is a small cabin that requires a steep climb up the mountain after leaving the road. The view is awesome and the peaceful surroundings will make it difficult to leave to return to noisy America. There are no cars in Wengen except for service vehicles. One of the reasons I decided to come here is that I’m sick of cars, trucks, and motorcycles in the US that are modified to be as loud as possible. How do such pigheaded notions catch on and proliferate with the public in America. Whatever happened to concepts like social responsibility and respect for others? I can tell you that such concepts are alive and well here in Switzerland.

After I settled in and took a shower I went back into town in search of a good meal and a walk around. I went to a pizzeria restaurant called Da Sina’s. As I was waiting to be seated I saw Kelly, the Australian who I’d met a few days before in Interlaken. She was having a salad and didn’t seem surprised at all to see me again.
After being seated and while going over the menu I noticed that, seated a few tables away, were Paul, Chris, and Nicole. Only about an hour had passed since I had seen them. I had to go and say hello to them as well.


Kelly told me to stop in the pub after eating and she’d be there. I ordered spaghetti carbonara –which was delicious. In the pub, of course, I saw Kelly. Met an English guy named Nick, a Swiss woman named Esther, an Italian dude named Marco. There was a rock band that was pretty good. Eventually Marco and I went to another place –more of a dance club. There was Bode Miller sitting with one of the guys who I’d met in Interlaken a couple of weeks ago. You may recall me mentioning running into a couple of guys who were race promoters. I got to congratulate Bode on his win on Saturday and tell him that understand that he’s from New Hampshire and that I’ve been living in Vermont. I sat and had a beer with them.


Today I went into town for food again and had a cheeseburger. While walking around I saw a girl walking a black lab so I patted the dog and thanked her then introduced myself and she said her name is Rina and she is from Holland. We arranged to possibly meet this evening as she told me where she is likely to be at about what time. She’s extremely pretty with light blonde hair and bright green eyes. It’s that time and I’m off to see Rina.

It was nice to talk to you yesterday, Brian. I’m sure that you enjoyed your conversation with Adriel and Ann. Adriel told me later that it’s a little awkward talking to someone who you know very little about but seems to so much about you.
Thanks for writing back, Jim in Ohio.



18:30 17 January, 2007 Ledi Wengen

I’ve spent the past few days hiking and generally exploring the beautiful area around Wengen. Have had a good time testing the cuisine in the local restaurants.
The nightlife is good, too. Two nights ago I met Tony from England (not the prime minister) and Olli from Finland. Last night I rand around with a group of four guys –two from Germany, one from Austria, and one from Switzerland. They all work together at a hotel in Hamburg. Also saw Esther again and ran into Rina and she was on her way to watch a movie with friends.
Yesterday I met a woman named Deanna from Germany who served me at a restaur

ant then ran into her last night after she got off work and walked her to the Hotel Belvedere where she’s been staying. She told me that she will be moving into another place this week. She’s also going to Basel this week on her day off to her permanent home.
Had a good hike today up by where the Lauberhorn ski races were held last weekend. From the area there I could look back to the hillside where I’m staying. Didn’t have my camera with me but wished I had. It would have been nice to be able to show how steep the climb to my place is.
Thanks for writing again Debbie in Ohio. You know that you folks are welcome to visit wherever I settle –assuming that I ever do.
Thanks to Jeremy for writing back and helping me to perhaps gain a better perspective on my annoyance with “noisy America.” I did know that you and the some of your kids have spent some time in Switzerland. Thanks for the update, too.
Michelle, the last one I sent got sent back. Maybe you don’t have enough space in your inbox for some of the pictures.
This place really has been a “dream destination” for me in at least two senses of the expression. It certainly is one of the most beautiful places in the world and I know that both Ron and Michelle have plans to visit Switzerland this year. I guess you can consider this trip of mine as a “recon mission” for you. Seems like Brian is mulling it over, too.
I know that in some cases I should respond to your emails more directly and I certainly intend to when I think of it but my actual “online time” is very limited. This cabin is cozy but rustic. It hasn’t been set up for that yet and probably never will be.


17:25 18 January, 2007 Ledi Wengen

I ran into the family that I met on the trains here from Interlaken Ost .last night. This time Nicole wasn’t with them. Apparently she was too tired to come out. There’s an English pub run by a guy named Colin and he has excellent wireless internet and Chris had taken his laptop there so they could use Skype to phone back to the US and talk to his grandparents. It was good to get better acquainted with Maria and Paul and I gave Maria one of my email addresses should they decide to keep in touch.
Watched a soccer match with Tony there, too. Birmingham was playing Newcastle.
Tony told me that it’s karaoke night tonight at Sina’s and he will be singing crooner music like that of Frank Sinatra, Tony Bennett, Andy Williams, etc. Might be interesting.
There’s a guy named Freddy who has a little eight week old black puppy that I can’t resist playing with. I’d seen him and his puppy a few nights ago.
Phoned Yvonne today and made arrangements to watch a ski race called “Inferno” with her that will take place near Murren on Saturday. This race is purely an amateur affair and promises to have its own brand of thrills and spills.
Saw Deanna a couple of times today. The first time was when she was walking on the street and talking on her cell phone but she waved and said hello. The second time was when she was in a taxi coming from the direction of the Hotel Belvedere, presumably she was in the process of moving but she waved again when she saw me.
Saw Rina walking the dog again and she also smiled and waved.
Rang up Ann today to see if she’s coming for a visit as she hinted at before I came to Wengen. Seems like she’s perhaps too busy. She put me on with Adriel who may visit on Saturday –which I doubt because his schedule seems to be full, too.
I may take the train over the mountain to Grendilwald to try to look up a lady friend from Germany who I met there last week. I don’t write about the successes with women because that’s really nobody’s business but I’m writing this so that you know it sometimes happens. In fact, there are quite a lot of people who I’ve met and haven’t written about. Some of them have turned into rather good friends such as Philippe from France, Cody from Dallas, Simon from Interlaken, Fabio from Lucerne, Oliver from Germany, Heather from Zimbabwe, Marlise from Interlaken, Monika from Thun, Natalia from Russia, and quite a few more. Yeti’s brother, Fritz, showed up unexpectedly at the cabin a couple of days ago and had a nice chat with him, too.
Some of the food that I’ve been having is quite nice. I don’t remember the names of most of it. Yesterday I had a Swedish roast cooked with prunes served over mashed potatoes and covered in gravy with mushrooms. Had pasta for dinner served in a cream sauce. Today I had tuna with rice that was preceded by a leek soup. Speaking of leeks, Karen are you planning on revealing your “ramp quiche” dish this year? The season is fast approaching!



12:54 19 January, 2007 Ledi Wengen

Talked to Colin, originally from Wellington, New Zealand, last night about what he’s done in the past for work. He said that he’s worked on oil rigs in the North Sea. It was funny because at the same time a soccer match was on with Aberdeen vs. Hibernian. I told him what I do and that I wouldn’t mind working internationally. Gave him a copy of my resume and he told me that one of his mates would be getting into town that evening who actually does work all over the world. I might be hearing from him. Never know.
Karaoke was a total blast! Tony did a very good job with Sinatra and I actually sang three songs myself (Day After Day, Back in the USSR, and Friend of the Devil). Tony told me that I’m better than I think I am. I don’t know about that because I think I’m pretty good. I always say that I don’t sing karaoke because I don’t get paid for it.
Met Alice from Belgium and we exchanged email addresses but I apparently lost it on the walk home when I unzipped the pocket holding my flashlight –and the note.
Finished reading the 13th book in the “Dune” series and I’m considering leaving it for Yeti. If he doesn’t want to read it he can use it to start the fire.
Met a woman named Jana from Leipzig and another named Tanja from The Black Forest. They work with Deanna. I guess all of the people who work at the hotel and restaurant are from Germany.
I leave Wengen in a couple of days and I’m definitely going to miss this town.

AL SJ


20:54 21 January, 2007 Alpenruhe Wengen

Mingling with so many people finally caught up with me. I’ve had a cold for the past couple of days.
Went to the local Anglican church this evening and noticed that one of the hymns is “Morning Has Broken” –the same song that was one of Cat Stevens’ biggest hits and presumably before he converted to Islam. The hymn was written by an Eleanor Fargeon.
Moved into a hotel and delayed my return to the USA by another week. Yippee!


12:17 22 January, 2007 Alpenruhe Wengen

Watched the Chicago Bears vs. New Orleans Saints game last night with Colin. He was definitely cheering for the Saints and I just wish it would have been a closer game. I also watched some of the Colts/Patriots game with Kelly and Neil. Looked like the Patriots were almost certain to win that one when I came home.
I just looked off my balcony to see the family from Perth (Linda, Keith, and Ellie) walking up the hill so I called out to them and asked if they remember meeting me at Sina’s and they said they did. I asked if they are going home soon since that’s what Charlie (from Gold Coast) had told me last night. “Tomorrow” is their response.


15:55 24 January, 2007 Alpenruhe Wengen

Ran into Linda, Keith, and Ellie later that evening at Colin’s place and snapped off a good picture of them all. We were able to pick out their house in Fremantle using Google Earth. I didn’t get an email address from them but I know where their house is.
Ended up playing pool with Charlie and Adam from Ireland. Also met a guy from Vancouver Island, BC but I don’t remember his name. While we were playing pool at Tiffany’s I saw the waitresses from Terrasse -Deanna, Tanja, and Jana.
Last night I met Sue and Roger from rural England. Had a few laughs with them at Sina’s. Saw Nick, Charlie, and Kelly at Tanne Bar. It was slick trying to walk up the hill to my hotel following the arrival of some fresh snow. The tread on my hiking boots is nearly gone but I think I can wait to get new ones back in the states.
According to the original plan I would have already been back but I have no real pressing need to return at any one time. The only thing is that my truck is parked in the front yard of Alberto’s parents’ in Miami. It’s nice of them to watch it for me but I don’t want to take undue advantage of them. Besides, if I don’t go back soon I might find a satisfactory reason to never go back.
At the Terrasse today I had the special (as I usually do). Today Ramona waited on me. I had “Wildcremesuppe mit Kerbelsahne” (game cream soup with chavil cream) –very tasty –and “Gebratenes Lachsfilet unter einer Haselnusskruste auf Topinambupuree” (roast filet of salmon with hazelnut crust and topinandue puree). A nice and satisfying meal. Jana suggested that we meet somewhere tonight.

19:16 26 January, 2007 Alpenruhe Wengen

Went to Schilthorn yesterday with Ann and we had coffee in the rotating restaurant. Later, on the way back down the series of four gondolas, we stopped in Murren and walked around town. Ann said that she had an old friend who runs the post office so we looked in on her. After that we went into a little shop and had more coffee.
We both came back to Wengen and had pasta at Sina’s. We went into The Caprice Hotel where Ann has fond memories of from years gone by. Apparently it has changed somewhat from what she remembered.


Ann ran to catch her train back to Lauterbrunnen and, in doing so, forgot her scarf. I’ll get it to her when I see her again in two days.
Adriel comes to Wengen tonight and we may hit the slopes tomorrow.
Thanks Dave, for writing back.





12:10 29 January, 2007 Ringgenberg Interlaken

Met a bunch more people from South Africa, Ireland, Switzerland, Germany and England. I’m almost ashamed to say that I sang “Longview” on Karaoke night.
Adriel and I skied/snowboarded at Kleine Scheidegg yesterday. It was very sunny and conditions were near perfect. I sent a trail map a few days ago. You’ll find it at the base of the Eiger and it says “K. Scheidegg” on the map.
I’m back at Ann’s and I’m trying to decide whether to travel to Zurich today and stay there overnight. My flight leaves tomorrow at 1PM so I could also just stay here and catch the early train in the morning. Decisions, decisions!
My brother is having a Super Bowl party which also happens to be his birthday, February 4th. By the way, I found out on Monday that the Colts beat the Patriots in one of the greatest comebacks in playoff history. Colin had the repeat of Sunday’s game on in his place. I was able to watch the game after all. Personally, I’ll be behind Manning. He deserves to win this one.
Sorry, Sue in Cologne , for not calling you while you were in Switzerland this week. Believe me, I tried but I just couldn’t get through for some reason. Where did you ski? Did you have fun? Dad, that was a “sad song” wasn’t it? Only country music can truly convey such sorrow!

-AL SJ


17:31 (Swiss time) 30 January, 2007 Somewhere over the Atlantic Ocean

Caught the train from Interlaken Ost to Zurich Flughafen this morning.
The flight left on time at 13:00 and we are now chasing the sun across the sky. The sun should just be dropping below the horizon as we fly into Miami at 17:45.
I’m lucky this trip because I have all five middle seats to myself and am taking full advantage of it. Too bad I can’t sleep on a plane, though. Still, it’s nice to stretch out if I want to.


09:05 (EST) 2 February, 2007 Richburg, South Carolina

I took a taxi from the Miami airport to Alberto’s parents’ house to get my truck. I paid them a little money and some Swiss chocolate. I have a feeling that my cache of sweets will come in handy.
Stayed in a hotel at Saint Lucie, Florida. The next day I drove to this hotel just south of Charlotte. The next morning it was snowing like crazy and so I decided not to try to drive. Stayed another night but now the roads look clear and I’m going to load up and head out. On the road again …!